Hydrated skin is youthful skin. Urea promises to hydrate your skin, locking in moisture. But how does it compare to other non-urea moisturisers?
What is a Moisturiser?
Urea in moisturisers is said to hydrate the skin. But what do we really mean by the term moisturiser? Well, in the simplest terms, it’s any skincare ingredient that leaves the skin with more moisture than it started with. That might seem a little simplified; however, different ingredients each have varying mechanisms of action.
Alongside the promise to hydrate the skin, moisturisers help maintain a healthy skin barrier, protecting it from environmental factors. We all know the difference between dry, cracked skin and skin that feels soft, supple, and supported.
Understanding Moisturising Terms
Look beyond the term “moisturiser,” and you’ll see several of these ingredients fall into three distinct categories: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Let’s take a closer look:
1. Humectant
Humectants have the ability to attract water from their surroundings. When applied to the outermost layer of your skin, humectants pull water from the dermis (a lower level of the skin) and from the environment, including humidity in the surrounding air (if it’s higher than 70%). This additional moisture plumps up the skin, preventing it from feeling dry and itchy.
Urea in moisturiser is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds water to deeply hydrate and plump your skin.
Examples include urea (found in moisturisers and serums), glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and aloe vera, which attract and hold water to hydrate and plump the skin.
2. Emollient
Emollients are one of the most common skincare ingredients. It refers to a group of oily substances that fill in the spaces between skin cells. Ceramides, oils, and lipids are all considered emollients. These agents remain the outermost layer of skin, maintaining the skin’s soft, pliable appearance.
Despite their prevalence, emollients will not increase the water content of your skin. They primarily act as a barrier. However, some emollients have multiple actions. Moisturising ingredients like lanolin and silicon derivatives act as an occlusive and an emollient.
Examples include ceramides, plant oils (like jojoba, olive, and sunflower), fatty acids, and lanolin, which fill in spaces between skin cells, smoothing and softening the skin’s surface.
3. Occlusive
Occlusives, as their name suggests, increase the water content in your skin by slowing down evaporation. Instead of acting directly on the skin’s properties, these agents act as a protective outer barrier. By sealing in the moisture, they help the skin feel more hydrated and guard against environmental factors that could cause irritation.
Examples include petroleum jelly (e.g., Vaseline), mineral oil, beeswax, and dimethicone, which create a barrier on the skin, sealing in moisture and protecting against environmental factors.
Common Types of Moisturisers
Urea in Moisturisers vs. Other Ingredients
Urea in moisturiser offers unique benefits compared to other common ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and oils:
- Deep Hydration: Urea is both a humectant and a keratolytic, meaning it draws moisture into the skin while gently exfoliating dead skin cells. This dual action makes it ideal for dry, rough skin.
- Gentle Exfoliation: Unlike other moisturising ingredients, urea helps break down tough skin patches. Over-the-counter urea creams are especially effective for calloused areas like elbows and heels.
- Enhanced Skin Permeability: Urea facial moisturisers improve absorption, allowing other ingredients to penetrate deeper. This makes urea a great addition to products designed for targeted skin concerns.
- Non-Greasy Finish: While some occlusive ingredients like oils can feel heavy, urea in moisturisers provides hydration without a greasy texture, making it suitable for all skin types.
